Well pump and pressure tank problems

No water at all

1. Power. Check the breaker for the well pump; most are a double breaker in the main panel. Some homes also have a switch or fuse box at the pressure tank.
2. Pressure switch. The small gray box on the pipe near the tank turns the pump on and off. Burned or pitted contacts can stop it from starting. Working on it means live 240-volt wiring, so leave it to a well contractor or electrician.
3. Pump or well. If the breaker holds and the switch closes but no water comes, the pump, its wiring or the well itself may be the problem.

In a cold snap, a frozen line in the pump house is common. Wells in a freeze.

Pump clicks on and off constantly

This is called short cycling and usually means a waterlogged pressure tank, one that has lost its air charge. You may notice the pressure surging up and down in the shower. A short-cycling pump wears out quickly, so have it checked soon.

Sputtering, air or sand

Spitting faucets can mean the water level in the well is low or there is a leak in the drop pipe. Sand or grit may mean a failing screen or a pump set too low.

Who to call

For the pump, wiring and pressure tank, call a well contractor; many plumbers also service them. New wells and well repairs are regulated by the SC Department of Environmental Services, and well drillers must be certified.

Test the water

A private well is not tested by any utility. DES recommends testing well water and offers testing services; test after any repair that opens the system, after flooding, and any time the taste, smell or color changes. The EPA's private well pages explain what to test for.

Keep a backup plan

When the power is out, the pump is out. Keep stored drinking water, and if you use a generator, have an electrician install a proper transfer switch. Power outages and plumbing.